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FARM TO SEDER TABLE

04/07/17 — Heydon Hatcher

Being in the food business means that we relish highlighting and celebrating holidays where food is the cornerstone of the festivities... Seder is one of the tops when it comes to celebrations with a focal point on food and drink. This Jewish holiday is right around the corner, and marks the beginning of the eight days of Passover. Seder is not only a commemoration of the Israelite’s freedom from servitude in ancient Egypt, but also a time to welcome Spring! The gathering comprises of friends and family reading from the Haggadah, a book that outlines the story of the Israelite’s exodus through special blessings, rituals, and songs. Seder literally means “order,” and there are several rituals followed throughout the evening. Traditional food is served in synchrony with the story, and are all symbolic of specific themes within the narrative. This week, we had the immense privilege of chatting with one of our CSA members, Kathleen Rubin, about what the holiday means to her.

Photo by Scott David Gordon. Photo by Scott David Gordon.

What does Seder mean to you?

When I was growing up my grandfather (and then my father) lead the reading of the Haggadah during our Seder (which basically is a guide book for the Seder meal with the story of Passover and songs that we all go through as a group). Since I moved to Austin, I've hosted a Seder at my home every year (which is fun for me because I love to cook and host dinner parties) but also because I now lead the reading of the Haggadah and it makes me feel like the matriarch of my own family's tradition. I use the Haggadahs that my parents received as a wedding gift and they are just so beautifully illustrated with imagery of pomegranates and the desert. I feel nostalgic just pulling out my set of books each year.

Side note: Pomegranates are a symbol used frequently in Judaism because the 613 seeds represent the 613 mitzvahs (or commandments/good deeds) in the Torah.

As a vegetarian, how do you navigate Seder? 

When I was growing up, our Seder meal consisted of Matzah ball soup and brisket (among other things). But I've been a vegetarian since since I was 15, and that meant picking around the meal and kind of missing out. So, as I planned my own Seders as an adult I tweaked some of the traditional Passover foods to be vegetarian. I absolutely love my vegetarian Matzo Ball soup recipe and the charoset (which is a yummy mix of apples, pecans and sweet wine that is mixed together as a sort of paste intended to represent the mortar used by Jews when laying bricks as slaves in Egypt). My favorite way to eat it is between two pieces of buttered matzah with horseradish on it (horseradish represents the bitterness of slavery on the seder plate).

Is there a Seder dish that you love to cook every year? What is it?

Vegetarian Matzo Ball Soup Serves 6 For the matzo balls:
  • 2 cups matzo meal (pulse matzah in food processor)
  • 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon truffle salt (this is the key!!)
  • 4 eggs
  • 2 tablespoons melted butter (you could use shmaltz, if you are not vegetarian)
  • 1/4 cup seltzer water


For the soup:
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 onion, roughly diced
  • 4 small carrots or 2 large, roughly chopped
  • 3 celery stalks, roughly chopped
  • 1/2 cup sherry or white wine
  • 2 quarts veggie stock
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 bay leaves


Matzo balls: Pulse the matzo crackers in a food processor until an imperfect powder is formed. A few bigger pieces are fine. In a medium-sized bowl, whisk together the matzo meal, baking soda and salt. Stir to combine. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs, butter and seltzer water. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and stir until evenly incorporated. Refrigerate mixture for about an hour (or up to 6 hours).

Heat a large stockpot of water and bring to a boil. Wet your hands a little and round matzo mixture the size of golf balls. Handle the mixture as little as possible. The lighter the touch, the lighter the matzo ball! The matzo balls will expand as you cook them.

When all matzo balls are formed and water is boiling, carefully drop each one into the boiling water. Cover and do not lift the lid for 25 minutes. (Another matzo tradition is to never check on the dumplings while they're cooking or that will cause them to be tough and heavy.) After 25 minutes, cut one ball in half and make sure it is cooked. I cooked mine for about 5 minutes more, in total 30 minutes with one lifting of the lid.

Soup: In another soup pot, get your stock going. Heat the olive oil on medium and saute the onions, carrot and celery for about 10 minutes, until vegetables are beginning to soften. Add sherry (or white wine) and cook for another 2 minutes. Add vegetable stock, garlic, bay leaves and simmer for about 30 minutes longer. Taste and adjust seasonings according to your taste. Add matzo balls to the stock about 15 minutes before you're ready to serve, gently warming the soup (the matzo balls will absorb some of the great stock flavor, so don't skimp on this step).

Charoset
  • 3 Medium apples peeled, cored, diced
  • 1 1/2 cup pecans (or walnuts if you don't like pecans, sometimes I also sprinkle pistachios on top)
  • 1 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 cup manischewitz
  • 1 tablespoon packed brown sugar


Stir together all ingredients and refrigerate!

Find some more recipe ideas here.

How do you incorporate your CSA share into the meal?

On the Seder plate itself there are several items that we taste throughout the meal as a reminder of the story of the Jews in Egypt. I use the dandelion greens as a bitter herb, but really any green from the box will do. Carrots in the Matzo Ball soup and other roasted veggies (more carrots and beets, too) with the meal.

Photo by Scott David Gordon. Photo by Scott David Gordon.

What is your favorite thing about the holiday?

Passover is a party! Sitting down and eating together and drinking many glasses of wine is just fun. I like to go through all of the songs, which I think are mainly intended to keep the kids at the table but it works on everyone. It's also nice to gather with my Jewish friends (and anyone else that's interested in participating) because it's not something I do very often. For me Judaism is a cultural expression that I am very proud of and the tradition of remembering our history of persecution as a reminder to love and care for anyone that is persecuted is a healthy ritual I enjoy each year and love sharing.

Kathleen's Seder. Kathleen's Seder.

If you are planning your Seder dinner or headed to a friend’s, don’t forget to visit us at market this weekend! We have your bitter greens and root veggies, so stock up!

In case you didn't know, we have pick-up locations at the Jewish Community Center here in Austin, and two JCCs in Houston, too! Check out our pick-up location listings here.

**A big thank you to Shelly Prant and Eric Newman for their expertise!
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